Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura

Basilica of St. Paul's Outside the Walls

Originally a small church erected by Constantine in 324 over the tomb of St. Paul, where a small shrine had stood for over two centuries before that, today's church was built after a tragic fire in 1823, due to a sloppy workman fixing the roof, burned the whole thing to the ground, sparing only the main apse.

Constantine's church was consecrated on November 18th, 324, and then torn down just sixty years later to make room for the vision of Emperor Theodosius. He began the church in 386 but did not see it to it's conclusion, as he died in January 395 and the church was not completed until the end of that year by the Emperor Honorius. Although is was almost entirely rebuilt, the current church shares much the same design as it's 4th century predecessor. Under Pope Paul VII (late 9th century) walls were built surrounding the church, and attached monastery, to make it a stronghold against invading Saracens and Lombards. In the early 13th century the beautiful cloisters to the south of the church were built, connected to the main church through a door in the transept.

Before entering the church you come into the square courtyard with the imposing figure of St. Paul carrying his sword lording over the small garden. He may be dwarfed in size by the four large palm trees but he nonetheless rules over the well groomed grass and hedges. This is one of the most pleasant entrances to a church in Rome, you are already outside the hustle and bustle of the center of town in this neighborhood, and stepping through the Corinthian colonnade that is open on the front you enter an even more tranquil space. The thing that strikes me the most is meticulously kept grass and stark contrast it provides with the white statue, grey columns, azure sky and gold mosaics that cover the facade of the church. The picture below shows the first glimpse of the courtyard as you enter from the far right. The columns on the shady sides make for a great spot to take a load off and enjoy a tranquil moment after a hectic bus or train ride and before entering the church.



As I said before the church was burned to the ground in 1823, but the restorations tried to follow the designs of the old church as much as possible, so the feel inside is the same as it had been for over 1400 years. When the church burned the entire Catholic world contributed to its reconstruction including, most notably, pillars of alabaster from the Viceroy of Egypt and precious malachite and lapis lazuli from the Emperor of Russia. The floor plan stands out the most to me. It is a giant rectangle with an enormous unobstructed nave that is lined on both sides by double side aisles, created a forest of columns that one must pass through before reaching the central nave, an idea that Bernini may have had in mind over a thousand years later when he built the piazza in front of St. Peter's. Compared to the tall nave with airy clerestory windows, the side aisles are dark and offer a more intimate space even they are only divided by columns. Their only illumination comes from windows that are covered not with glass but with incredibly thin cut marble arranged in symmetrical patterns that bring to mind a Rorschach inkblot test.



As you walk to the front of the nave you will see the two over life-size statues of St. Peter and Paul flanking the 13th century baldacchino (spared by the fire) by Arnolfo di Cambio (original architect of the Duomo in Florence). In front of the baldacchino there is a set of stair that leads down about six feet or so into a small open space where you can see the supposed tomb of St. Paul as well as the chains that bound the Saint in the last days before his execution.



Also of note in the main part of the church is the apse mosaic that was also spared by the fire and was executed by Venetian artists in the 13th century. The mosaic depicts Christ surrounded by the Apostles Peter, Paul, Andrew and Luke. There is also a portrait of Pope Honorius, who commissioned the work, near Christ's feet.

If you are facing the apse walk to the right towards the southern end of the transept and you will find the entrance to the cloister (3 euros, 1.50 reduced), certainly worth the price of admission. The cloister was also built in the 13th century and this small graceful courtyard is lined with columns of varying shapes and decorations from serpentine white columns to columns inlaid with chevron mosaics. While the courtyard at the entrance catches you with its size and power, here detail is the clincher. The walls of the cloister are lined with ancient marble slabs salvaged from the original church and bear Latin and Greek inscriptions. In the far left corner of the cloister you can enter the small pinacoteca (picture gallery) which also includes a room of relics



The church sits south of Rome's historic center in the Ostiense neighborhood and is a long walk from the center of town but is easily reached on the metro (B line to San Paolo) or Bus, #23 runs along the Tiber and stops directly in front of the main facade.