May 25, 2009

Hotel Raphael

The hotel is one of Rome's finest and included in a very short list I saw in the Times travel section along with the likes of the Hotel de Russie and the Hassler Hotel (Romes finest 5 star luxury hotels). Originally a Renaissance Palace, this building has undergone many renovations throughout the years. The Hotel opened in the 1960's after massive interior restorations, leaving the 18th century facade intact due it's demarcation as a national historical monument. Little of that facade is visible today because it has become a living wall of greenery. The entire building is covered with different types of ivy so that only the front door is uncovered. Some of the larger vines can be seen sinuously twisted into the metal grates covering the lower windows. Once you enter the hotel it has a very modern feel. The lobby sports various works of art including some ceramics by Picasso.

If you take the elevator to the fifth floor, walk up one more flight you emerge onto the multi-level terrace which offers one of the most stunning views of Rome. Set one block back from Piazza Navona, the roof is in the middle of the historic center of Rome and offers a spectacular view of the surrounding area. Looking southeast (behind Florian's head in the picture below) the first thing you see is the dome of Sant'Agnese in Agone, a masterpiece started by Rainaldi and finished by Borromini. Continuing left from that you'll see the top of the obelisk which sits on top of Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers. After that Borromini's fanciful dome of Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza. When he finished construction on the dome the pope at the time (I think Alexander VII) was not convinced the construction would stand so he forced Borromini to guarantee it with his own money. In the distance to the left side of the picture you can see the Vittorio Emanuele monument with it's four horse chariots rising high above the Forum.

Other highlights of the view (not in the picture) include the dome of the Pantheon, Villa Medici on the southern edge of the Villa Borghese as well as the many gardens that dot the Roman skyline.

Given that it is a luxury hotel, things do not come cheap at the restaurant, but a bottles of wine start at 28 euros (not extortionate for where you're sitting). We had a very nice Palai Muller Thurgau from the Dolomites which went well with the breeze. Cocktails are 14 euros, beer 11 euros, coffee 4 euros for an espresso and 6.50 for a cappuccino. The also have salads (12 euros) and sandwiches (14-16 euros). Attached to the bar is also the hotel restaurant which is supposed to be fantastic, but incredibly expensive, I didn't get a chance to look at the menu so I can't say any more about that.

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